I wrote earlier this
year about making a pattern from a jacket. I bought the original jacket years ago in the
US. It was made in a very drapey polyester
georgette, and has been a wardrobe favourite, great to wear over something sleeveless when it's hot. I thought the shape had possibilities for other fabrics, especially handwoven ones.
The latest woollen version
is actually a better balance between body and drape
I had taken Nancye Whitman’s workshop on Iridescent Weaving at the Guild’s Summer School, and with
some information from Heddlecraft May 2018, the 4-colour Echo weave issue, and Bertha Grey Hayes Jitterbug draft
as a design line, I came up with a draft.
I had to search to find 4 colours that I thought could work together and
added a strand of silk or viscose to the wool yarns to give a bit of extra
shine.
Here are the colours
for the warp
The warp itself
Weaving, with a black weft, in progress,
I based the bands on a weft face weave I’d used for glasses cases
but if I were doing it again, I would
look at a different glasses case draft to give softer stripes in the band.
I calculated carefully and used 2 repeats so that the band would have stripes inside as well as outside, see picture of inside below.
I calculated carefully and used 2 repeats so that the band would have stripes inside as well as outside, see picture of inside below.
I finished weaving and
wet-finished the two fabrics. I didn’t even have enough time for my usual
trick of rolling it onto a cardboard tube to make me think the fabric is ‘store
bought’ but I did make sure I measured everything at least twice, if not more, before cutting
it.
I showed a couple of the runway shots in the last post but here are a couple posed on Polly, my model, with the 'oil on a wet road' effect of the Echo weave showing up well, especially on the larger area of the back.
Here's the inside. I managed to find some silk/viscose fabric, probably meant to be a garment in its own right, but it was just the right weight and colour to make a great lining and it feels very luxurious
I should probably start designing something for next year now - maybe I can deliver it to the Guild with more than 45 minutes to spare. I see in the catalogue that the theme for 2020 is 'Vision'. I can probably come up with a few ideas for that one.
Helen
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